So to start whit, this are 3.3kWh 48v battery Modules called Ess modules that stands for Energy storing system which are setup as standard 19´ mounts which should easily fit our box.
So let’s begin mounting them up and screwing them up Whit that done let’s talk about the module, beginning whit the measurements although it’s a 19´ standard rack, on the inside behind the face plate its 17´ and a full 19´ from ear to ear and about 20´ from the rack mount to the back and 6´ height which should let you install 4 units on the typical rack system.
This module It’s a 16s which consist of 2 8s modules that could be broken apart, the problem is that’s they are welded together, you could cut them apart and install a new connection or bus bar, but there’s probably a way for you to do it 
somehow if you really wanted to, but as they are their ready to go 8s and 8s and if you wanted to use them as 24v you totally could you would just have to rearrange the main bus bars to have both 8s as parallel and have a 24v system, but it’s probably best to be used as a 48v system because its ready to go.
It also has a fan which can be activated by an external system. 
Each pair of cells has a thermistor so that’s 4 termistors per bank of 8 cells and each individual cell has balancing going back to a Bms board that is housed in this compartment which us a standard Rc type of plugin 
so any Rc charger or any other stuff that’s made for the Rc world that could handle 8s would be able to work, In this case I will start checking individuals cells voltages, when I’m charging I want to make sure they are not unbalanced, so I was very easily was able to swap the bms board for my own equipment and get it running.
On the Bms system we are checking and trying to figure out the communication protocols.
I think its CAN commands going thru, so if we are able to figure it out you will have access to that so you could have monitoring on this guy. But if not you can very easily used third party equipment to check the balance and status of this battery’s.
The nominal voltage is 58.4 according to info on this rating sticker, as for the system power output is 3.971kW nominal capacity 68Ah, operating voltage 49.6-65.6 Vdc This are made to cycle quite a bit so they are going quite conservative on the voltage because at 65 it’s about 4v and of course this things can go all the way up to 4.2 but of course you won’t get that really long life cycle on the higher end or the lower end so that’s why the recommended operating voltage is 49.6v to 65.6v.
still like to mention that some of them are showing that. Ok so here we are showing 10kWh of battery at 48v, let’s talk about capacity as you saw on the video I did a lot of testing, the first cycle these came out a little low at 2.83kWh, second 2.74kWh and 3.11kWh then I did a second cycle and they all average out at 3.3kWh on the second cycle I went from 4.2v all the way to 3v and giving me a total of 10kWh out of these 3 ramdom packs that i sampled. 
Since these units been probably sitting around for a while they will need a couple of cycles to get their thru capacity out, and since there are around 1 thousand of them and because they are so many we won’t get a chance to test all of them out, but since we took out 3 random samples from the batch and all average at around 3.3kwh that’s how we will be advertising them as 3.3kWh battery modules. So as you saw from the video this is pretty easy to assemble, as for the terminals here this are 48, straight to the battery terminals whit M8 bolts making it easy to be able to connect all of them leading
to an inverter and you are ready to go. Now let’s talk about inverters, since you will need some sort of inverter to use the power stored in this battery’s, this are 48v Dc unless you have some devices that work at 48v then you won’t be able to use it, most devices will either work on 12v or 24v if you have Rv appliances and stuff or 120v and 240v Ac for the bigger appliances and in order to do so then you will need an inverter.If you want like a top of the line inverter then you can get one like this OutBack Radian Series 8000W Power Inverter which is grid interactive.
It also has all kinds of features that will let you use battery first or just to use the battery as back up, you could also install an emergency generator so that when the battery runs out in an emergency you could still have a generator to power the battery’s
This inverter lets you use this battery in an off grid scenario, you could also take it out to a cabin in the middle of the woods and install this battery connect to the inverter and could use 110v or 240v and have enough to run your house like an Ac, anything that below 8kWh this setup will be able to handle it, this is expandable so you can use a bunch of them up to 16 of them, so this is a great setup if you want to use top of the line.
Sometimes you can find them cheap like I did like in this case because it had the grill missing I paid 50% of retail price, there’s was like 30 of them and you guys bought a lot of them so some of you guys reading this probably got one of them, but if that’s too much money and you want an affordable version let me show you what you can do.
Here we have a grid tie inverter whit 48 to 90 volts 
on the Dc side solar grid tie inverter, so you will be able to connect these battery’s and fully charge at 67v all the way to 45v this will run and will convert the 48v into 240 ac and when you connect it to your main circuit it will take all this stored energy into you house wiring system so you could use it and whatever you don’t use it will go back to the grid, but this particular unit has a sensor that you could put to limit itself to only what your house is using, so this grid tie inverter will never let you feed back into the grid, and the best part is that they are very affordable, I bought this for about 240dlls in ally express, it’s a 2kWh inverter.
I ran a test to check out the capacity of these battery’s and they ran for around 10 hours straight, no problem at full peak and it never overheated, units like this are built to be able to output the peak power for extended periods of time without burning up.
Let me show you how this work, this is probably not the best way to connect this but I like to complicate myself, you could just get 2 cables and conect them all and unto the inverter.
Now we have the battery running 1977 Watts pulling 36.4 Amps from the battery and although it’s not fully charged since it’s at 63% this could be here forever and we installed the sensor to limit then it will only be putting out what its needed, if it’s less than 2000
watts then it will limit itself to whatever it is and if its more than that it will put out full power all 2000 watts. so from this you can decide where to part from.
Here’s is a simplified version of a solar off grid setup that you would be able to use whit whit these.
List of Materials:
3.3kWh 48v battery Module - Single 48v Module - https://j35.us/SamsungESS48v-single
13.6kWh 4 Module Pack kit - https://j35.us/SamsungESS
48v 8000w Outback Inverter https://kit.com/jehu/power-inverters/...
2Kw Grid Tie Inverter https://kit.com/jehu/power-inverters/...
DC Capacity Meter https://kit.com/jehu/diy-powerwall-bu...
Flight 19" rack case https://kit.com/jehu/diy-powerwall-en...